Synthetic motor oil now days is certainly thin enough for chain use. the molecular structure of synthetic oil is fantastic and is great at what it is designed to do - resist high sheer loads in an engine. That is all it is really good for. On a chain you do not have sheer but rotational friction inside the roller at the pin. That is actually the only place that the lubrication is necessary. The very reason why chain lubricants are made to penetrate is the outside needs no lubrication.
You don't want to use motor oil because it will:
1. Sling off the chain as it it made to film off of parts and be pumped though a filter and back into engine parts. Engineers worked really hard to make it perfect for that job.
2. Attract dirt. Another property that those good petroleum engineers did was make a product that carries the contaminants to the filter. Bikes don't of course have that filter so the gritty material will wear your chain and gears.
3. It is wash out resistant. Good for resisting rain, but it resists mild chain cleaners too. Oh, you can cut it, but usually to remove it all you need a solvent not detergent.
The types of products you want for a chain:
1. Wax based ';dry'; lubricant. This is a modern formulation of a wax made to emulate paraffin that used to be melted onto chains. This new chemical mix is a carrying solvent and wax that penetrates where you need it and the solvent evaporates leaving the wax behind to do the lubrication. Since wax is dry no attraction of dirt. Wax is also very water proof so it's good in the rain. Draw back is that this formula is the hardest to clean off a chain, and your chain had to be thoroughly cleaned of any petroleum before using. It won't stick to the metal of the chain with a petroleum film in the way. Read the label.
2. Dry Teflon Lube. Very good lubrication as Teflon is the slipperiest substance known. It works with a carrying agent just like the wax. It is a bit wetter as the carrier has a light oil to try to keep the Teflon in place as Teflon itself is transferable. Too slippery to stay on it's own when not baked on like a frying pan. Teflon as a lubricant is like tiny micron sized bearings and they are in the plastic family. They wont break down in water but can be flushed out easily with detergents that break down the carrying oil.
3. Wet lubes. Think of them as just better oil for the task than motor oil. They still attract dirt and need more cleaning. Water resistant to rain and actually the best choice in the rain, as long as you know you will have a cleaning job when you are done in the rain.
4. New tech ceramic impregnated lube. This is the new twist on the wax and Teflon. A carrier bring ceramic powder that burnishes onto the metal. It takes a couple applications to get it right with break in riding in between. (read the label) It promises to be the best of all words -- if it works.Anything wrong with using motor oil(synthethic) on a bicycle chain and gears?
Yes -- it attracts dirt and grime like there's no tomorrow, and any bike shop mechanic that has to work on your rig is going to want to punch you in the head.
As a bicycle mechanic, nothing annoys me more. Spend $7 on a tube of synthetic, bicycle-specific chain lube -- it's designed to lubricate without attracting more dirt into the chain (which reduces its lifespan). Only requires a few drops. A tube should last you at least a year.Anything wrong with using motor oil(synthethic) on a bicycle chain and gears?
Motor oil is too thick to use on bicycle chains. You want a thin mineral oil that can get into the rollers and provide lubrication. You never want to oil a dirty chain because it will wash the grit into the rollers. You want to degrease the chain and remove the grid before oiling. Never use WD-40
http://bicycletutor.com/chain-lubricatio鈥?/a>
http://bicycletutor.com/no-wd40-bike-cha鈥?/a>
I say NO without having any facts to back my opinion. Have never seen any facts to justify expensive commercial chain lube either. Lots of hype, but no facts. Maybe somebody can point us to them.
Clean well, oil, and wipe down real good. Use the lowest weight oil you can get. The wiping is important to retard the accumulation of road grit on the exterior parts of the chain.
I think one of the selling points of chain lubes is less accumulation of grit, and they aren't as messy when applying. After a few miles tho, my chains are just as black using chain lubes as with motor oil. And the crap won't hardly wash out of fabric, especially anything synthetic.
Sheldon Brown in the link talks about ';oil'; without specifying anything.
Edit: Give McG the 10 points he deserves for the most informed answer.
Other than Making a Mess and wearing off, Nothing.
if you use Oil for Bicycle chains, it has a ingredient that bonds to the chain to protect it from moisture, regular motor oil does not have this, and comes off the chain during use.
regular oils attract dirt and break down faster. bicycle lube with teflon is the best ( finishline) brand. i know i've had to clean up lots of chains and drive lines. use to have own shop and still do maint %26amp; repair.
Yes! Don't be cheap, get the good stuff. But if you are asking this question, you are probably stupid enough that you bought your bike from walmart, so go ahead, smoother it in motor oil and have fun.
Oil is oil, I use any oil on my bike.
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